JAKARTA, Indonesia — Theo Hesegem was carrying a foreigner on his motorbike when a pair of police intelligence officers pulled up behind him and ordered him to stop. It was midday in Wamena, a small city in the highlands of West Papua, Indonesia’s easternmost region and the only one foreign journalists need a special permit to visit.
“Mr. Theo, where are you coming from?” the officers asked.
Hesegem, a human-rights activist, explained that he had been asked to give the woman a ride by the head of the local indigenous people’s council, Areki Wanimbo. Hesegem had been visiting Wanimbo’s office when the woman, Valentine Bourrat, arrived with another French citizen, Thomas Dandois, Hesegem said. What the three of them had discussed, Hesegem didn’t know, but he had been happy to drive Bourrat back to her hotel.
“We’re on heightened alert in Wamena,” the officers said, referring to a recent spate of violence in the area. The previous week, two policemen were killed in a shootout with the West Papua National Liberation Army, or TPN-PB, a diffuse association of guerrilla groups that for decades have waged a low-level insurgency against Indonesian rule. “Just take her back to the hotel,” the officers told Hesegem. “We might need to call her in for questioning.”
Hesegem, a native Papuan — the officers were Javanese, the country’s dominant ethnic group — did as he was told. A few hours later, the police showed up at Bourrat’s hotel. Dandois didn’t make it that far; he was intercepted by officers on his way back from Wanimbo’s.
Today, more than a month after the arrests, Bourrat and Dandois, journalists who were filming a documentary on West Papua’s independence movement for Europe’s Arte TV, remain in custody in the region's main city of Jayapura. Wanimbo has also been detained. Most journalists caught working on tourist visas in Indonesia are deported immediately, but in this case local officials have said they will seek a trial.
The head of the local immigration office, Garda Tampubolon, said he hopes the two will receive the maximum penalty of five years’ imprisonment. Perhaps more troubling, a police spokesman announced last month that Bourrat and Dandois were also suspected of conspiring with “armed criminal gangs” to “destabilize” West Papua, a much more serious charge that carries a maximum sentence of 20 years.
“We don’t know what’s going to happen to them,” said Marc Dandois, Thomas Dandois’ brother.
But some are optimistic the situation will soon change. On the campaign trail in June, Indonesian President-elect Joko Widodo said there was no reason to keep West Papua closed. (Similar bans on reporting in Aceh and parts of eastern Indonesia were lifted in the previous decade.)
What’s more, since 2013, three Australian journalists have gained permission to examine controversial issues there. Still, the reporters remained limited in what they may do, and their experiences appear to have been aberrations rather than signs of a true shift.
In early 2013, Michael Bachelard, The Sydney Morning Herald’s Indonesia correspondent, was granted a permit to write about HIV/AIDS in West Papua. He returned with a startling exposé on the trafficking of Christian children to Islamic boarding schools in Java. But an intelligence agent ordered to accompany Bachelard by the clearinghouse committee that vetted his application was for logistical reasons never sent, allowing Bachelard more freedom than he otherwise would have had.
When pressed to explain the ban, Indonesian officials usually cite safety concerns. “There are elements in Papua who are keen to obtain international attention by bringing harm to international personalities, including journalists,” Indonesian Foreign Minister Marty Natalegawa told the Australian Broadcasting Corp. last year.
But Andreas Harsono, a researcher with Human Rights Watch, said members of the security forces prefer that the ban remain in place because of concern that journalists would expose widespread corruption in the territory. In the latest high-profile case, Labora Sitorus, a low-level Papua regional police officer was convicted in February of running an illegal logging operation. Sitorus was allegedly known as a cash machine for higher-ranking officers; evidence presented at the trial linked him to $127 million worth of transactions.
“These self-interests are keeping the restrictions in place,” Harsono said. “Why? If foreign journalists are out there, they’re the ones who have the power, the network, the knowledge, the connections to expose these practices.”
Bourrat and Dandois were not the first foreign journalists to sneak into West Papua. But none since Oswald Iten of the Swiss daily Neue Zurcher Zeitung, who was jailed for 12 days in Jayapura in 2000, have been detained for anywhere near as long. A week and a half after the arrest, Alexandra Kogan, Dandois’ partner, told a French magazine that he had thought that if he was caught, the greatest risk would be deportation. “Nobody thought that 10 days after being arrested, he would still be there.”
Hesegem said he sees hypocrisy in the ban. Western politicians often hold Indonesia up as a paragon of democracy in Southeast Asia and the Muslim world. But he said quasi-authoritarian rule in his part of the country stains that reputation. “If Indonesia is really a democracy,” he said, “then let reporters into Papua.”
But Andreas Harsono, a researcher with Human Rights Watch, said members of the security forces prefer that the ban remain in place because of concern that journalists would expose widespread corruption in the territory. In the latest high-profile case, Labora Sitorus, a low-level Papua Regional police officer was convicted in February of running an illegal logging operation. Sitorus, allegedly known as a “cash machine” for higher-ranking officers; evidence presented at the trial linked him to $127 million worth of transactions.
“These ‘self-interests’ are keeping the restrictions in place,” Harsono said. “Why? If foreign journalists are out there, they’re the ones who have the power, the network, the knowledge, the connections to expose these practices.”
Bourrat and Dandois were not the first foreign journalists to sneak into West Papua. But none since Oswald Iten of the Swiss daily Neue Zurcher Zeitung, who was jailed for 12 days in Jayapura in 2000, has been detained for anywhere near as long. A week and a half after the arrest, Dandois’ wife told a French magazine that her husband had thought the greatest risk, if he was caught, would be deportation. “Nobody thought that 10 days after being arrested, he would still be there.”
Hesegem said he sees hypocrisy in the ban. Western politicians often hold Indonesia up as a paragon of democracy in Southeast Asia and the Muslim world. But Hesegem said quasi-authoritarian rule in his part of the country stains that reputation. “If Indonesia is really a democracy,” he said, “then let reporters into Papua.”
But Andreas Harsono, a researcher with Human Rights Watch, said members of the security forces prefer that the ban remain in place because of concern that journalists would expose widespread corruption in the territory. In the latest high-profile case, Labora Sitorus, a low-level Papua Regional police officer was convicted in February of running an illegal logging operation. Sitorus, allegedly known as a “cash machine” for higher-ranking officers; evidence presented at the trial linked him to $127 million worth of transactions.
“These ‘self-interests’ are keeping the restrictions in place,” Harsono said. “Why? If foreign journalists are out there, they’re the ones who have the power, the network, the knowledge, the connections to expose these practices.”
Bourrat and Dandois were not the first foreign journalists to sneak into West Papua. But none since Oswald Iten of the Swiss daily Neue Zurcher Zeitung, who was jailed for 12 days in Jayapura in 2000, has been detained for anywhere near as long. A week and a half after the arrest, Dandois’ wife told a French magazine that her husband had thought the greatest risk, if he was caught, would be deportation. “Nobody thought that 10 days after being arrested, he would still be there.”
Hesegem said he sees hypocrisy in the ban. Western politicians often hold Indonesia up as a paragon of democracy in Southeast Asia and the Muslim world. But Hesegem said quasi-authoritarian rule in his part of the country stains that reputation. “If Indonesia is really a democracy,” he said, “then let reporters into Papua.”
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