RIO DE JANEIRO — It’s a Sunday afternoon in Vila Alianca, a favela, or slum, on the western edge of this Brazilian city. V.A. Clube and Bacardi Futebol are competing in the semifinal game of the Vila Alianca Cup, an amateur soccer tournament organized here. The score is tied 1–1.
Rowdy fans whistle and yell while guzzling large bottles of pilsner beer from makeshift bleachers of plastic bar chairs and car hoods. A nearby Evangelical church holds bible lessons; its hymns mix with loud curse words shouted from the field.
V.A. Clube’s players race across the field in canary yellow Nike jerseys, replicas of the Brazilian national team’s uniform. Anderson Nascimento, V.A.’s team captain, attacks through the center and sets up a play for his teammate Little Marcos, who scores the winning goal. The crowd erupts in applause, and 40 gunshots are fired into the air.
The young man who fired the shots stands and smiles, an AK-47 rifle in his hand. He is the owner of V.A. Clube, the leader of the region’s illicit narcotics trade and the most powerful person in the favela.
In 2011, Franklin Ferreira, a local physical education teacher, decided to start an intramural league in Padrinho’s favela. Ferreira also runs Craques da Vida, a local soccer NGO that promotes sports and discipline for the favela’s youth.
“This is what keeps people motivated here on the weekends,” said Ferreira, as he stood on the sidelines with a clipboard and pen during Sunday’s game. “It is what brings joy to this humble community.”
Most people, he said, can’t afford to go see games in Maracana stadium, home of most of Rio’s professional teams and the venue for the 2014 FIFA World Cup final. It is roughly 30 miles from the small field in Vila Alianca; by train, it can take up to two hours to reach the arena’s entrance. Said Ferreira: “This is our own little version of that.”
In September, Franklin started the first official Vila Alianca Cup. Thirty-two teams signed up. Many of the owners and managers were affiliated with the local drug trade, while others were local business owners. To join, each team paid a registration fee of US$300, and an additional $44 on game days to maintain the fields and pay referees. The winner of the tournament will receive a cash prize of $15,000.
On game days, the field is surrounded by barefoot children and armed gangsters. Everyone seems to know each other.
The games can get rowdy. On Sunday, one drunken gangster, known as Falcao, stepped onto the field mid-game. Ferreira put his arm up to Falcao’s chest and said he couldn’t enter with that “shin guard” — referring to the gangster’s M16 rifle.
“I keep my eye on what is happening inside the game,” said Ferreira. “The things that happen outside are none of my business.”
In 2011, Franklin Ferreira, a local physical education teacher, decided to start an intramural league in Padrinho’s favela. Ferreira also runs Craques da Vida, a local soccer NGO that promotes sport and discipline for the favela’s youth.
“This is what keeps people motivated here on the weekends,” said Ferreira, as he stood on the sidelines with a clipboard and pen during Sunday’s game. “It is what brings joy to this humble community.”
Most people, he said, can’t afford to go see games in Maracana stadium, home of most of Rio’s professional teams and the venue for the 2014 FIFA World Cup final. It is roughly 30 miles from the small field in Vila Alianca; by train, it can take up to two hours to reach the arena’s entrance. Said Ferreira: “This is our own little version of that.”
In September, Franklin started the first official Vila Alianca Cup. Thirty-two teams signed up. Many of the owners and managers were affiliated with the local drug trade, while others were local business owners. To join, each team paid a registration fee of $300 USD, and an additional $44 on game days to maintain the fields and pay referees. The winner of the tournament will receive a cash prize of $15,000.
On game days, the field is surrounded by barefoot children and armed gangsters. Everyone seems to know each other.
The games can get rowdy, though. On Sunday, one drunken gangster, known as Falcao, stepped onto the field mid-game. Ferreira put his arm up to the Falcao’s chest and said he couldn’t enter with that “shin guard” – referring to the gangster’s M16 rifle.
“I keep my eye on what is happening inside the game,” said Ferreira. “The things that happen outside are none of my business.”
In 2011, Franklin Ferreira, a local physical education teacher, decided to start an intramural league in Padrinho’s favela. Ferreira also runs Craques da Vida, a local soccer NGO that promotes sport and discipline for the favela’s youth.
“This is what keeps people motivated here on the weekends,” said Ferreira, as he stood on the sidelines with a clipboard and pen during Sunday’s game. “It is what brings joy to this humble community.”
Most people, he said, can’t afford to go see games in Maracana stadium, home of most of Rio’s professional teams and the venue for the 2014 FIFA World Cup final. It is roughly 30 miles from the small field in Vila Alianca; by train, it can take up to two hours to reach the arena’s entrance. Said Ferreira: “This is our own little version of that.”
In September, Franklin started the first official Vila Alianca Cup. Thirty-two teams signed up. Many of the owners and managers were affiliated with the local drug trade, while others were local business owners. To join, each team paid a registration fee of $300 USD, and an additional $44 on game days to maintain the fields and pay referees. The winner of the tournament will receive a cash prize of $15,000.
On game days, the field is surrounded by barefoot children and armed gangsters. Everyone seems to know each other.
The games can get rowdy, though. On Sunday, one drunken gangster, known as Falcao, stepped onto the field mid-game. Ferreira put his arm up to the Falcao’s chest and said he couldn’t enter with that “shin guard” – referring to the gangster’s M16 rifle.
“I keep my eye on what is happening inside the game,” said Ferreira. “The things that happen outside are none of my business.”
Nascimento started playing with Craques da Vida when he was 15. A year later, he was discovered by a recruiter and began playing professionally in teams throughout Brazil. The game sent him to Riberao Preto in São Paulo, to the northeastern state of Bahia, and to the coastal city of Angra dos Reis, in Rio de Janeiro state.
Nascimento quit the professional league last year, though, after the birth of his daughter, Allyce Naiara. Her name is tattooed on his right forearm.
“I would only see my wife on Saturday night and Sunday and would have to take the bus back to Angra on Monday,” Nascimento said. “When I found out she was pregnant, I knew I wouldn’t be able to stay away too long.”
A devoted husband and father, Nascimento is a force on the field. He’s ambidextrous and skilled in playing offensive and defensive positions. He also has a temper, which he occasionally unleashes on referees and other players.
At home on a recent day, Nascimento wore a bright yellow and red jersey. “This is the real deal,” he said of the jersey, which sells for $150 in stores here. “He gives us uniforms, gear. He even helps if I need medicine for my daughter or if I’m short on cash for the month.”
“He” is Padrinho, Nascimento’s sponsor and one of the most wanted men in Rio.
“They have their lives. I have mine,” Nascimento said of the drug traffickers. “If they invite me to have a beer, I go. I don’t see him as this bad guy. To me, he’s just a normal guy.”
In March, the Vila Alianca tournament was suspended after police and drug traffickers started engaging in frequent shootouts. Rio de Janeiro’s state security secretariat recently installed a police pacification unit in neighboring Vila Kennedy. Permanent community police posts have been set up in nearly 40 favelas throughout the city as part of the pacification program, an effort to crack down on drug trafficking in areas dominated by gangs ahead of the World Cup.
One trafficker, who played for the team America, was killed during one of the exchanges.
Despite the fears of violence, police brutality and discrimination, Nascimento said he will never leave Vila Alianca.
“This is my home. Is there drug trafficking? Yes, there is. Are there shootings sometimes? Yes. But I still would not live anywhere else,” he said. “I play for V.A. because it stands for Vila Alianca.”
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