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Chinese New Year is a good bet in Las Vegas

Casinos on the famous Strip put down a lot of chips to lure high-rolling Chinese across ocean to celebrate

Topics:
China
Las Vegas
Travel and Tourism

LAS VEGAS — Henry Chao balanced his 8-year-old son, Marcus, on his shoulders at the Wynn Las Vegas Casino so the giddy kid could see over the throngs of other tourists as a 90-foot red and gold cloth dragon, propelled by dancers underneath it, leaped and shimmied to a boisterous drumbeat.

For Marcus, the scene defines Chinese New Year. The Chaos, who live near St. Louis, have celebrated the holiday on the Las Vegas Strip every year that he and his 9-year-old brother have been alive.

“This is very different, very different from what we did when I was small,” said Chao, 53, of his boyhood in Hong Kong, as the dragon wended its way through the casino en route to the high-limit baccarat rooms. “But it’s still very exciting and maybe the closest thing we have here in the U.S.”

Like thousands of other Chinese-Americans and an increasing number of tourists from Asia, the family heads to the Strip for lion dances, special meals, Canto-pop concerts and elaborate decorations that have made this gambling capital a key destination for the event. What began in 1975 as a minor tribute to the culture by Caesars Palace has exploded into a paint-the-town-red extravaganza that is, behind the Super Bowl, now the second-biggest wagering event of the year in Las Vegas.

Throughout the two-week holiday, which this year began Jan. 31 and celebrates the Year of the Horse, fleets of private jets criss-cross the Pacific to ferry high-roller guests and their families. MGM Resorts alone has six jets to fly in Asian “whales” — big-spending, big-betting customers — according to Anton Nikodemus, the company’s president and chief operating officer for casino marketing.

An eye-popping Year of the Horse display at the Bellagio in Las Vegas.
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The past decade has seen a particular blossoming of relationships between Las Vegas and China as MGM Resorts, Wynn Resorts and Las Vegas Sands have opened several casino-hotels in the Chinese special administrative region of Macau. The Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority opened a tourism office in Shanghai in 2008, two years after Macau displaced Vegas as the world’s biggest gambling market. (Singapore, where Sands also owns a resort, is expected to bump Las Vegas down to No. 3, possibly as soon as this year.)

Yet, Nikodemus said, that boom seems to have merely whetted the Chinese desire to see Las Vegas and its environs. The city greeted more than 263,000 Chinese tourists in 2012, according to the most recent data from the visitors’ authority. In 2006 the figure was about 87,000.

"Having a property over there that’s recognized and established is really important,” Nikodemus said of the MGM Grand Macau. “It’s become significantly easier to move our guests from there to Las Vegas for a different experience."

Those heavily sought-after Asian high-rollers are treated to private banquets attended by Chinese celebrities and showered with lavish gifts by hotel executives.

Across the city, hotels like Caesars Palace and the Venetian erect massive banners with the Chinese New Year greeting "Gung hay fat choy" in Chinese characters. Red paper lanterns and citrus trees with dangling red envelopes are ubiquitous, and the Bellagio’s Conservatory is done up for the holiday with eight horses, six Chinese children figures and a pagoda. The Conservatory, a free display, features 22,000 flowers, 600 shrubs and 60 bamboo trees.

“The first year we did this (in 2001), it was the Year of the Ram, and we got tremendous feedback not only from our guests but from our peers,” said Andres Garcia, the Bellagio’s executive director of horticulture. “Chinese guests felt we showed we were understanding their culture.”

Vegas didn’t always understand Chinese culture so well. When the MGM Grand opened in 1996, its main entrance was a giant lion’s mouth. Many Asian tourists refused to enter through it, believing that doing so would bring bad luck. Nowadays, nothing significant is built on the Strip without consulting a feng shui expert, Nikodemus noted.

Asian culture has now percolated into the famed Vegas showrooms as well. “Panda!” a new production that opened last month at the Las Vegas Sands–owned Venetian in time for the holiday, was produced by the team that designed the opening ceremony for the 2008 Beijing Olympics. It’s a variety show with an all-Chinese cast that includes members of the China National Acrobatic Troupe and the Shaolin Monastery Kung Fu Monks Troupe.

Sous-chef Steven Aung with a dish called Leaping Over the Dragon’s Gate.
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“‘Panda! is the first major show on the Strip that seems to be created to attract the Chinese tourist,” said Cindi Moon Reed, arts and entertainment editor of Vegas Seven, an alternative weekly magazine. “The show doubles as an expression of Chinese culture, and the creators chose the panda as the show’s focus because it is the symbol that’s most associated with China.”

Chinese restaurants all over the city offer special New Year menus, adding some traditional dishes or renaming existing offerings with lucky or upbeat words. It’s not unusual for a family to spend more than $20,000 for a Chinese New Year dinner, with some top-end restaurants importing abalone at more than $2,000 a pound and bird nests at $1,600 a pound for the festivities.

Even resorts not known for drawing high-roller Asian guests get into the Chinese New Year spirit. At the Cosmopolitan Las Vegas’ China Poblano eatery, a special menu this week includes a crispy red-snapper dish called Leaping Over The Dragon’s Gate, which is intended to pay homage to a Chinese myth about a koi that transforms into a dragon. Other dishes, like the Xinjiang Uyghur lamb chops, refer to less widely known Chinese culinary traditions like that of the lamb-rich and Muslim-dominated northwestern corner of the nation.

“It’s done to give the Americans a sense of the traditions,” said head chef Eric Suniga of the dishes created by Chinese-born sous-chef Steven Aung and refined by the owner, famed restaurateur Jose Andres. “A lot of these dishes aren’t traditional of what Americans recognize as Chinese food, but they’re traditional flavors Jose really wants Americans to try.”

Most resorts schedule lion and dragon dances that, like the Wynn event, start in the entryway to the casinos, with costumed dancers lighting firecrackers before roaming the building. At the threshold of high-limit baccarat areas, they dance and fling lettuce, a symbol of prosperity.

A striking lion at the Wynn casino for the Chinese New Year.
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The Wynn lion dance was put on by the California-based Yau Kung Moon troupe and involved more than 100 performers from Los Angeles and San Francisco. The company, which has performed lion dances at Strip hotels since 1989, regards the Vegas gig as the “most important of the year,” said Alisa Van, Yau Kung Moon’s assistant events coordinator and the daughter of its founder.

“It is the highest, the most fun,” she said. The troupe will appear in Chinatown events around California in the coming week, but “those are more parades — not necessarily a set show. In Las Vegas, it’s a performance. There’s a theatrical entertainment. We have dragons with neon lights.”

High-end shopping, too, is geared this week toward the Chinese celebrant. At the Crystals mall, crystal designer Lalique rolled out an equestrian collection of vases and sculptures. Watch vendors such as Tourbillon and even Swatch are offering horse-themed merchandise.

Many Chinese tourists appeared dazzled by what they found.

“I didn’t think this would be so nice,” said Jojo Wong, 31, of Taipei, watching the dotting-of-the-eyes ceremony that wakes up the dragon at the start of the lion dance at Wynn. “I thought I’d be missing the fun back home, but this is worth seeing at least once. It’s so Chinese and yet so American.”

The horse theme seems to have been an easy one to adapt, but other animals of the Chinese zodiac might not be.

“I do wonder how the casinos will decorate when it becomes the Year of the Rat,” Reed said. “Fortunately, we don't have to worry about that until 2020.”